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Discussion in ‘ Outerwear ‘ started by Dinerman , Sep 12, Want to buy or sell something? Check the classifieds New Posts Classifieds.
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The plaintiff appeals from a judgment so far as it dismissed its complaint for the infringement of Claims 43, 44, 45, 47, 48, 49 and 52 of Patent No. The art to which both the patents and the trade secrets belong was that of “slide fasteners,” or “zippers. The “zipper” is in such widespread use that we shall assume an acquaintance with it, and confine our statement to the processes which are the subject of this action. Two methods of making the metal parts — “elements” — and of fastening them to the tapes to make “stringers,” had been in use before Wintritz filed his application in October, One of these was to make the “elements” separately and feed them from a hopper to the tape to which they were to be attached; the other was to “coin” or to “stamp” the “elements,” feed them to the tape, and attach them — all in a single machine.
Wintritz’s patent was a variant; one machine “coined” or swaged out of a piece of wire the “elements” as “embryos” in a continuous strip; another machine fed the wire so “coined” to the tape where at one stroke a punch finished the fabrication of that “element” which was next to the end, and cut from the strip the end “element,” which was at the same time clamped upon the tape. Ulrich was a later inventor; his disclosure was of a method and a new “strip”; it was an improvement upon Wintritz, the chief purpose of which was to eliminate waste metal.
The cause of action for inducing the betrayal of the plaintiff’s trade secrets we defer for the moment. Claims 43, 44 and 45 of the Wintritz patent were for the machine which feeds the partially formed “elements” to the tape, completes, cuts and attaches them. They depend, not upon the details of the mechanism which does this, but upon the succession of steps which begins with “a connected series of embryo fastener elements” and ends with the “elements” clamped upon the tape.
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This is a wonderful jacket. I have been looking for one for a long time but can’t find one that fits. I am travelling to New York next week and was wondering if you knew anywhere where I could get my hands on one?! Many thanks Freddie. Hi Patrick and thanks for a nice and interesting blog. The N-1 is a great jacket. I’ve been looking for one for quite a while now.
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The Type A-2 leather flight jacket is an American military flight jacket originally invented and developed for and closely associated with World War II U. Army Air Forces pilots , navigators and bombardiers, who often decorated their jackets with squadron patches and elaborate artwork painted on the back. Sometimes casually referred to as a bomber jacket , its original designation was “Jacket, Pilot’s summer “, and its wartime usage was limited neither to pilots nor to bomber crews.
The Type A-2 flying jacket was adopted as standard issue by the U. Army Air Corps as the successor to the Type A-1 flying jacket on May 9, , per specification number The U. It describes the jacket’s construction as “seal brown horsehide leather, knitted wristlets and waistband skirt. The A-1’s stand-up knitted collar, which buttoned closed, was supplanted in the A-2 by a shirt-style leather collar, with hidden snaps at the points and a hook-and-eye latch at the throat.
Stitched-down shoulder straps were also added to the design. Sizes were listed as ranging in even numbers from 32 through The A-2 was replaced by the AN AN-J-3 per a specification reference document dated May 24, and declared “Limited Standard”, meaning replacements were available.
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from left to right:M43 TALON zipper,used on the last blue deck jacket and the first green middle one is a M44 TALON,as used late WW2.
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Check out our sale items and offers. Every single Aero jacket is made from start to finish by an individual machinist, each taking immense pride in his or her work, there is no production line at Aero. Similarly every Aero jacket is individually cut and perfectly matched. We never cut nor sew a batch of sleeves, collars or patch pockets etc ready to add to the rest of the jacket during a production line style run.
Even though it’s a much more economical way to work, the risk of mismatched panels is high when compared to a jacket where each panel is matched to the next during cutting and these are kept together during the entire manufacturing process. We choose the optimum stitch size for the type and weight of leather being used, it takes 5 seconds to change the stitch size on an industrial sewing machine, each machinist resets the stitch size on his or her machine for each change in hide.
While the largest stitch size we use is smaller than was average during the Golden Age of jacket making and we use a smaller stitch on our thinner hides, we will never use a stitch size so small that the perforations made by the needle are so close together that they risk the leather tearing along the stitch line under stress like on a sheet of postage stamps. We use a heavy duty cotton thread with a poly core for extra strength.
Forty years of restoring vintage jackets have shown us that the weakest point is invariably the rotting pure cotton thread. We also use a heavy duty spear point leather needle to sew our jackets. The shape of the needle point prevents fraying and thread breakages during make up and later during wear. A thinner needle and cotton thread is perfectly OK in lighter weight leathers, but using this combination in our heavy leathers gives a far higher risk of broken needles and broken thread during make up.